Longform stories and essays exploring Portland's history, culture, and untold stories.

How a coin toss, 200 feet of rain, and a generation of California refugees built America's most self-conscious city

In the early 1900s, Portland built 400 public stairways to connect streetcar lines to hillside neighborhoods. Workers used them to walk to factories. Kids used them to get to school. Then cars arrived, the streetcars died, and the stairways were forgotten. Today, about 200 remain — hidden urban infrastructure from an era when cities were designed for feet, not wheels.

Vanport was Oregon's second-largest city by 1948, home to 18,500 people — including most of Portland's Black population. On May 30, 1948, officials assured residents the dikes would hold. At 4:17 PM, they didn't. The city was underwater in 35 minutes. It was never rebuilt. The flood permanently reshaped Portland.

In the early 1900s, Dr. Marie Equi was one of Portland's most prominent physicians — and one of its most dangerous radicals. She provided abortions and birth control when both were illegal, lived openly with her female partner, adopted a child in one of America's first same-sex families, and was imprisoned for sedition. She was called "the most dangerous woman in Oregon." This is her story.

In 1948, Portland newspaper columnist Dick Fagan looked out his office window and saw a leprechaun digging in an abandoned hole in a traffic median. He caught the leprechaun, wished for a park, and got exactly what he asked for: a circle two feet across, officially the world's smallest park. For decades it had a tiny swimming pool, hosted snail races, and was home to "the only leprechaun colony west of Ireland." Portland has never stopped being weird.